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Others seemed to prefer Western-style dresses or drag queen apparel. There, each muxe had a section with tables and decorations where food and drinks were served to their guests. Some even call it a matriarchy, which is not necessarily correct, but women traditionally handle the money brought home by the men. Locals joke that men here have sweet or salty penises, meaning they are either farmers or fishermen. Women, on the other hand, are supposed to sell what men produce, and the market is their domain.
Tonight, as is vela tradition, women traditionally donate money as a gift, while the men carry cases of beer. Also, muxes are socially not allowed to have long-term relationships or get married so they can stay with their mothers when they get old.
Kika's mother was checking that nobody was hungry, and younger family members gave me a new bottle of beer when mine started to empty. She owns a beauty salon in the centre of the town. Another of his muxe friends is a primary-school teacher.
The spectacle puts a lot of emphasis on the Catholic part of the muxe identity. It was their job to prepare the church decorations.
View image of A lot of muxes work preparing the traditional fiestas that are a big part of the local economy Credit: Credit: Zofia Radzikowska After mass, the traditional procession began through the streets of the town. The colourful crowd was led by a band and muxes carrying candles. Behind them, more muxes rode in cars and trucks decorated with flowers, balloons and paper decorations.